AAR Expert Henry Staggs says a well-ventilated attic lowers monthly energy costs and extends the life of your HVAC system.

This month, we turned to our AskARoofer Experts to explore one of the most important — and often overlooked — components of a high-performing roofing system: ventilation. Proper attic ventilation plays a critical role in regulating temperature, improving energy efficiency and protecting the long-term health of both the roof and the home.

To better understand its impact, we asked our Experts to weigh in on the following question: How do ventilation design choices impact attic temperatures, HVAC performance and long-term shingle durability? 

Henry Staggs, founder of The Arizona Roofer, shared his thoughts:

In the Arizona heat, roof surface temperatures can easily exceed 160°F, causing attic spaces to climb well above 140°F. Without proper airflow, that trapped heat eventually "soaks" through your insulation and into your living space. 

A well-ventilated attic creates a thermal buffer, significantly reducing the burden on your AC unit. By allowing your home to "breathe," you aren't just protecting your shingles — you're lowering your monthly energy costs and extending the life of your HVAC system. 

AAR Expert Henry Staggs shares his best advice for hiring the right contractor for your roofing project.

For many people, a roof is out of sight, out of mind. So, when it comes time to have work done on the roof, whether that's maintenance on a building or new shingles on a home, it can be a bit intimidating. That's why we created the AskARoofer Expert program!

This program connects home and building owners with professionals that are experts in the world of roofing through monthly articles. These articles, written directly by the experts, answer common questions you may have about embarking on a roofing project, from navigating warranties to picking the best materials. Most recently, in January 2026, our experts' articles focused on offering advice for home and building owners who are getting roof quotes.

Here's what one of the experts, Henry Staggs, had to say: 

"Hiring the right contractor isn’t about finding the lowest price — it’s about making a smart decision.

Start by verifying licenses and insurance. Make sure the contractor actually does the kind of work you need, and take a look at how they treat people online. Professionalism leaves clues.

Meet them face-to-face. The right contractor will explain things clearly, answer questions honestly and never rush you into a decision. Before you hire, check their record with the local court. A long history of disputes is something every homeowner should pause and think about.

Once you’ve found the right fit — then discuss price. Negotiation works best when trust is already in place."

This homeowner was up in their attic and noticed they could see the underlayment of their roof. 

Samantha, a homeowner in Missouri, came to our experts after some renovations were done on their house, including the roof. This is what they asked:

We recently had a house fire and have gutted part of our 1916 house. We just had new asphalt shingle roof put on less than two years ago. I noticed once they demolished the ceiling into the attic I could see the underlayment from the roof exposed in multiple areas. Is this normal? Should plywood have been added to the roof?

Below is what our roofing expert John Kenney with Cotney Consulting Group had to say in response to Samantha's question:

Samantha, seeing roofing underlayment from the attic is not typical in a roof assembly. In a properly built roof, the shingles should be installed over solid decking — usually plywood or OSB — which serves as the structural base for the roof system. The underlayment, whether felt or synthetic, is applied on top of that decking, directly beneath the shingles.

If you see the underlayment exposed from inside the attic, it likely means there’s no solid sheathing under the shingles—something more common in homes built before the 1940s, when spaced plank decking was standard. While older roofs can technically be reroofed over those boards, there should not be significant visible gaps exposing the underlayment. Gaps that wide can compromise shingle fastening, insulation and performance.

Given your home’s age and the recent fire damage, I’d recommend having a qualified roofing contractor or structural professional inspect the deck. They can confirm whether new sheathing should be installed over the existing boards to meet current codes and ensure long-term roof integrity.

In addition to John's response, Henry Staggs from the Arizona Roofer sent in this answer for Samantha!

Continue the conversation in our Forum!

AskARoofer Expert Henry Staggs shares what every homeowner and business owner should know about warranties.

When you invest in a roof, whether it’s for your home or a commercial property, you’re making a big commitment. A good roof protects everything underneath it, and you want to know that protection will last. That’s where warranties come in — but not all warranties are created equal. Over the years, I’ve seen a lot of property owners get tripped up by fine print or unclear coverage. Let’s break it down so you can make the right decision for your property. 

Material warranties versus workmanship warranties

There are two main types of roofing warranties, and it’s important to know the difference: 

1 - Material (manufacturer) warranties 

These come directly from the manufacturer of your shingles, tile, foam or coatings. They cover defects in the product itself. If the roofing material fails because it was made wrong, the manufacturer takes responsibility. 

Now, not all material warranties are equal. Some just promise the material won’t fall apart, while premium ones — like an NDL (No Dollar Limit) warranty on commercial roofing — go much further. With an NDL warranty, the manufacturer inspects the installation, and if there’s ever a covered problem, they’ll fix it at no cost to you. No limits, no caps. Best of all, that warranty stays in place even if your contractor disappears down the road. That’s a big deal. 
 
2 - Workmanship (contractor) warranties

This warranty comes from the contractor. It covers the labor and how the roof was put together — things like flashing, sealing or proper fastening. If a roof leaks because of poor workmanship, this is the coverage that matters.

The truth is, workmanship warranties vary wildly. Some companies only offer a year or two. Personally, I think that’s not good enough. A roof is meant to last, and your workmanship warranty should reflect that. That’s why at The Arizona Roofer, we back our work with extended workmanship coverage — because we believe in doing things right the first time.

How we protect our clients even if we're gone

Here’s something most people never think about: what happens if your contractor goes out of business? That’s a scary thought when you’ve just dropped thousands on a new roof. We’ve built in protections so our clients are never left hanging. 

• For commercial roofing - We offer manufacturer-backed NDL warranties. These aren’t just a piece of paper — the manufacturer actually inspects our work. That layer of accountability means your roof has protection that doesn’t depend on us still being around.
• For residential roofing - We’re proud members of directorii. This adds a level of security that most Arizona homeowners have never even heard of: 
  • Your deposit is insured up to $20,000. If anything were to happen to us before work starts, you’re not out that money. 
  • Plus, directorii backs our workmanship warranty up to $250,000. That covers code violations, workmanship defects and more — even if The Arizona Roofer wasn’t around anymore.

That’s real protection, and it’s one of the biggest reasons clients choose us.

How to navigate roofing warranties like a pro

When you’re looking at roofing bids, don’t just compare prices. Compare protection. Ask these questions: 

• Who actually backs the warranty — the contractor or the manufacturer? 
• Does the warranty stay valid if the contractor goes out of business? 
• Is the coverage capped or truly unlimited? 

Those questions can save you tens of thousands of dollars down the road. 

Final thoughts

At the end of the day, a roof is only as good as the materials, the workmanship and the protection behind it. That’s why we go the extra mile — so our clients know they’re covered, no matter what.

If your roof is more than six years old, it’s time for a professional inspection. If it’s over ten, you’re already overdue. Let’s take a look before small issues become big, expensive problems. 

Call or text me today at (480) 435-5190 or visit www.thearizonaroofer.com to schedule your free inspection.

When it came time to replace a piece of decking, this homeowner wanted to make sure they got it right the first time. 

John, a homeowner from Georgia, came to the AskARoofer Experts with a question about replacing a deck:

"Should old 11-inch wide plank decking be replaced with 4x8 OSB decking? If so, can you install new OSB on top of the existing plank decking?"

A variety of our experts chimed in with thoughts, including Jose Castellanos with Bumble Roofing, who said:

We always suggest using OSB or plywood with roof replacements to abide by manufacturer standards! With plank decking (we call it shiplap), there is a possibility that the nail driven into the shingle does not hit a board and is therefore not truly installed to the sheathing. It is possible to install OSB on top of the existing plank decking!

Roofing expert John Kenney from Cotney Consulting Group also responded with: 

Although the 11-inch plank decking may still have some structural integrity, it doesn’t always meet today’s manufacturers' standards for shingle application. Installing a layer of 4x8 OSB or plywood over the existing deck is a smart upgrade that solves those concerns and helps ensure the roof system performs as it should in the long term.

You can install OSB over the existing plank decking, assuming the planks are in good condition, meaning they’re flat, secure and rot-free. Doing so gives you a clean, consistent nailing surface and reduces the chances of shingles telegraphing board movement underneath. This is a common and accepted approach when reroofing older homes. Just make sure to use the proper fasteners that secure the OSB to the planks and penetrate into the rafters below. That’s key for maintaining structural integrity.

Now, if any of the existing plank decking is soft, warped or shows signs of decay, it needs to be replaced before proceeding. Laying OSB over bad wood doesn’t solve the problem; it just covers it up. That said, if the planks are solid, this method brings the roof up to modern standards cost-effectively. I’d also recommend checking with your local building department, but this method is acceptable in most areas as long as structural load requirements are met.

Donavan Morgan from The Roof Gallery, another one of our roofing experts, shared his thoughts: 

Yes, you can overlay old 11” plank decking with OSB instead of tearing it all out. Ideally it should have space less than 1/4 of an inch. 

• Replace planks only if they’re rotten, split or badly cupped.
• Overlaying OSB (7/16”–5/8”) gives a smooth, flat base and saves labor.
• Fasten into rafters, not just planks, so it’s structurally tied in.
• Watch weight, ventilation and fix any rotten boards first.

Rule of thumb If planks are mostly solid and less than 1/4 inch gap → overlay with OSB. If they’re shot → tear out and replace with full OSB decking.

And last but not least, our roofing expert Henry Staggs with The Arizona Roofer sent in this response! 

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

This homeowner asked the AskARoofer experts about what they should do to address a leak in their mobile home's roof. 

Lowe from South Dakota came to our experts with a bit of a unique question:

I built an addition on my 1970s mobile home and the roof is leaking. What do I do?

One of the AskARoofer experts, Henry Staggs of The Arizona Roofer, shared his advice with Lowe, saying: 

"Well, I assume the roof leak is probably somewhere in the transition from the old structure to the new addition. That's typically where I found them on those types of properties.

What I would suggest doing is going to a supply store that sells parts for manufactured homes like doors and windows and things like that, because manufactured homes or mobile homes are built differently, obviously, than a stick home, because they have to be lighter so they can be travel, travel on the road, so they use smaller boards and smaller or lighter, lower and less width. Forgive my lack of vernacular right now, a more narrow window, doors, etc, and the grip framing is typically a two by two, and it might have some cut OSB or CDX in there to help support it up.

But you got to kind of know what you're doing. And I would venture that you would find, or ask around in those areas, in those manufactured home supply stores, ask around for a roofer there, get some recommendations and have a couple guys come out and take a look. Those guys will be more familiar with the manufactured home, you know? As opposed to a roofer who's used to working only on stick built properties, you could probably still get the job done, but you have a very special home, so you'll need somebody who understands how it's made."

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

A year after purchasing a new home, this Maryland homeowner discovered air leakage in the attic and wanted to know the most efficient course of action. 

Piia, a homeowner from Maryland, wasn’t sure how to tackle air leakage in the attic and asked: 

I purchased my home last year and it passed inspection for attic insulation. The attic and second floor are very hot in the summer and very cold during the winter. During a home energy audit, we were told we have air leakage and they recommended that we instead spray foam on all the attic walls and ceiling. The attic floors are currently not sealed. Therefore, I am curious if we should instead invest in sealing those areas, and perhaps installing baffles, radiant barrier and an attic fan and/or gable fan before spending the money on spray insulation for the attic walls and ceiling. How do I know the right move? 

Below is what our roofing expert Henry Staggs from The Arizona Roofer had to say in response: 

Attic system recommendation – radiant barrier, insulation and ventilation 

Think of these components as part of a complete and integrated system. To get the best performance and energy efficiency, we need proper insulation, a radiant barrier and adequate airflow working together. 

I recommend designing a system that incorporates all three elements: 

• Radiant barrier to reflect heat away from the attic 
• Insulation to reduce heat transfer into the living space 
• Ventilation to allow hot air to escape and cooler air to circulate 

For example, we could install a radiant barrier along the underside of the roof decking, blow in R-38 insulation on the attic floor and add ridge and soffit vents to create a continuous airflow. This combination keeps the attic cooler in the summer and helps regulate indoor temperatures year-round, ultimately lowering energy bills and extending the life of your roof. 

John Kenney from Cotney Consulting Group had this to share: 

You’re asking the right question — and thinking through it in the correct order. 

Even with insulation, if air leakage and poor ventilation are present, your home will suffer from the extremes you feel. Here’s how to think about your options: 

Start with the basics first: 

1 - Air sealing the attic floor is typically the most cost-effective first step. Gaps around plumbing, wiring and top plates allow conditioned air to escape, making insulation less effective. 

2 - Install baffles at the eaves to ensure proper airflow from soffit vents up through the attic. 

3 - A radiant barrier can help reduce summer heat gain if your roof and attic design allow it. 

4 - Fans (attic or gable) can help improve air movement but should support — not replace — proper ventilation design. 

When does spray foam make sense? 

• If you want to convert the attic to a conditioned space (essentially bringing the attic inside your building envelope), spray foam on the underside of the roof deck and walls is excellent — but it’s also a bigger investment. 
• Spray foam is best when part of a whole-system approach, not just added to an already leaky, vented attic. 

How to decide: 

• If you plan to keep your attic a vented space (typical in most homes), prioritize air sealing the attic floor and improving ventilation first. 
• Spray foaming can be tricky and cause deck rot if moisture is trapped.  

Bottom line: 

Start with air sealing and improving your current ventilation — those steps alone often resolve many comfort issues at a lower cost. Then, assess if upgrading to a fully conditioned attic with spray foam fits your budget and long-term home goals. 

Continue the conversation in our Forum!

Expert answers to four questions from homeowners like you!

We created AskARoofer to help connect professionals in the roofing industry with home and business owners looking to learn more about roofing. One part of how we do this is getting expert answers to our users' questions. Here are four questions that were asked recently, and the expert answers to them!

1 - Roof between sheds

Coleen from Colorado was looking to find a way to cover a space between two sheds, so they asked: 

I want to enclose two sheds that are uneven by putting a roof between them. How can a person design this to keep snow and rain from building on the roof between the new roof.

One of the AskARoofer Experts, John Kenney from Cotney Consulting Group, had this to say in response:

The only way to design this safely is to use a contractor and a design professional to know how to space and fasten the roof supports between the two sheds. This more complicated project that requires professional design consultation.

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

2 - Leaking roof

When Michael from Kansas discovered a homeowners nightmare — a roof leak — they turned to the AskARoofer experts for some advice. They asked:

I have an addition that was built onto my home. Where the existing roof hits the addition, water collects and leaks into the walls of the addition. What sealer should I apply to the seam where the roof meets the vertical wall of the addition?

Where the angled roof meets the vertical wall, it is leaking into the wall. I need to seal the area but want to make sure I’m using the right thing.

Our resident roofing expert, Henry Staggs from the Arizona Roofer, shared this advice: 

At a roof to wall abutment there should be a flashing. If it’s the head wall, we need a base and counter flashing. If is the rake wall and the roof is shingled. We need step flashing and a counter flash. If it’s tile then we need a pan flashing and counter flash. 

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

3 - Holes in roofing

Elaine from West Virginia reached out for some help when they were looking into buying a home. They asked:

We are buying a house and the owner had a roof leak and top nailed a tarp the roof. The owner took out the nails and filled the holes with sealer. Is the roof compromised now?

Below is what our roofing expert John Kenney with Cotney Consulting Group had to say in response:

Yes, the roof may be compromised. Top-nailing a tarp creates penetrations in the roof surface, and simply sealing those nail holes afterward is not a proper repair. Even high-quality sealant can degrade over time, especially under UV exposure and may not prevent future leaks. The extent of the damage depends on the roofing material, how long the tarp was in place and whether water entered through those holes before sealing.

Have a licensed roofing contractor perform a detailed inspection before closing to protect your investment. They should check for hidden moisture damage, weakened decking and the system's overall health. A quick patch job may hide bigger problems — so verify before you buy.

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

4 - Roof ridge workmanship

When Kristen from Maine came from work, they saw something strange on their roof. So they asked our experts this: 

Came home from work yesterday, and this is what I saw for ridge workmanship. It's my first new roof as a first-time homeowner, but this does not look right to me. Roofer dismissed what I described as it not looking "clean" (especially towards left side) as related to cold weather. I'm not so certain? Hoping for some advice so I can speak up before the job is finished, thanks.

Here's what one of the AskARoofer experts, Steven Minkler with Adam Quenneville Roofing and Siding, thought about Kristen's situation:

Definitely not clean work!!!

Typically they would cut one in half being the last one and either tar it or adhesive on to ensure the look is clean, and water tight with no exposed fasteners.

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

AAR Expert Henry Staggs shares tips for getting the most from your roof investment — and making more sustainable choices along the way

Your roof has to do more than just keep out the rain and sun. It plays a major role in how your home handles heat, uses energy and stands the test of time. Whether you’re thinking about a new roof or just want to take better care of the one you have, these tips can help you get the most from your investment — and make more sustainable choices along the way.

1 - Stay ahead with maintenance

The best way to make your roof last? Take care of it. Preventative maintenance is the simplest and smartest thing you can do. Regular inspections help catch small issues before they turn into big (and expensive) problems.

We recommend scheduling a checkup twice a year, especially before and after Arizona’s monsoon season. During these visits, clear out debris, check for broken tiles or shingles and take care of any minor repairs. A roof that’s maintained well lasts longer, reduces waste and saves you money in the long run.

2 - Think about energy use

In many place, such as Arizona where I'm from, heat means that energy-efficient roofing isn’t just a bonus — it’s a must. Reflective materials like light-colored shingles, tile or acrylic and silicone coatings can help deflect the sun’s rays and reduce heat buildup inside your home.

That means your HVAC system doesn’t have to work as hard, and your utility bills go down. When shopping for materials, look for ENERGY STAR®-rated products or roofing systems specifically designed for hot, sunny climates.

3 - Keep an eye on it

Don’t wait for a leak to find out your roof needs attention. Keeping an eye on your roof’s condition helps you avoid surprise repairs or even a full replacement before it’s necessary. Schedule regular inspections, especially if your roof is more than 10 years old. Tools like moisture meters or drones can help spot problems early, without needing to climb up yourself. A little proactive care goes a long way in protecting your home.

Quick tip: Choose long-life systems

Whenever possible, go with roofing materials that are built to last — and that can be recycled when it’s time for a replacement. Tile, metal and coated foam systems all perform well in our desert environment. And when they’re installed and maintained properly, they can last for decades. Be sure to ask about manufacturer warranties and always choose licensed, insured contractors who stand behind their work.

Need help choosing or maintaining your roof? Give us a call at (480) 435-5190 or visit www.thearizonaroofer.net. At The Arizona Roofer, we offer honest inspections, expert advice and roofing solutions tailored to Arizona’s climate.

Homeowners from four different states sought advice from our AskARoofer experts to answer their most pressing roofing questions.

On AskARoofer, we aim to live up to our name and connect people to contractors with answers for their roofing questions. Here's what four homeowners asked recently.

1 - Oregon

Michael from Oregon was wondering about how to find the right roof inspector for their situation and asked:

I live in northwestern Oregon. Our community has concrete tile roofs. Can you help me find a roof inspector who will not attempt to direct us towards a roofing company?

One of the AskARoofer Experts, Wendy Marvin with Matrix Roofing and Home Solutions responded, saying this:

Walking concrete tile roofs is difficult and can lead to cracking of tiles. There is a lot of risk associated with being on a tile roof because of this, and because of the fact that many concrete tile roofs are no longer being manufactured, so if a tile is cracked – a replacement may not be available.

This is why home inspectors refer to roofers in this situation. Can you tell us more about why you don’t want a roofer on site?

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

2 - Arizona

Over in Arizona, a homeowner named Tony sent in this question:

I ripped off my roof to remove the AC unit. My brother wants to put the AC unit back on the roof before we put down the shingles. Is that recommended?

Jeff with Phoenix Roofing and Repair said: 

Yes, HVAC before shingles. The roofers can properly flash around it rather than expecting that HVAC guys will roof the new flashing the correct way. 

Continue the conversation in our Forum!

3 - Wisconsin

Keenan from Wisconsin reached out for some insight and advice when they were working with an Owens Corning product, asking:

Owens Corning ProEdge Hip and Ridge instructions call for a 6" exposure with nails placed at 6 1/4". Why are the nails placed so close to the exposure and outside the sealant? I'm trying to understand the manufacturers logic for the nail placement. What am I missing?

Our roofing expert Erica Reed at Elite Construction Solutions jumped in with an answer, saying:

According to Owens Corning, they have an over lay from the top cap shingle past the sealant bead to cover the nail head. They don’t want the nail head to impact the seal ability. Also, they want to make sure it’s covered by the shingle above it so it doesn’t rust from weathering. Hope that helps!

Continue the conversation in our Forum!

4 - Kentucky

And last but not least, Phil, a homeowner in Kentucky asked:

What is the granule loss rate for TopShield Pro SA Cap membrane?

Henry Staggs with The Arizona Roofer had the following insights: 

There would be a lot of factors that come into play, the environment, the amount of walking on the roof, how it was installed and so on. I think his best bet is to call the manufacturer to come out and do an inspection if he has concerns about the roof's service performance. 

Continue the conversation in our Forum