AskARoofer Expert Henry Staggs says that roof maintenance helps property owners get ahead of wear and tear.

For most property owners, the roof is the ultimate embodiment of "out of sight, out of mind" until water begins dripping through the ceiling. Yet, your roof is easily one of the single largest investments in your building’s envelope. Successfully managing its lifespan isn't about waiting for a disaster to happen and reacting; it’s about shifting your strategy from defensive crisis management to proactive asset protection. 

The golden window: The power of the biennial cadence 

The math behind roof longevity is simple: regular evaluation saves thousands. A professional roof inspection should take place once a year and absolutely no less than once every two years. Additionally, scheduling a brief assessment immediately following major seasonal weather events is vital. 

While winter storms bring obvious weight and moisture, the summer months introduce a quiet, brutal enemy: extreme heat and intense UV radiation. Mid-summer sun can push roof surface temperatures past 150°F. This extreme heat causes materials to expand rapidly, while the subsequent evening cool-down causes them to contract. This daily thermal shock slowly degrades seals, pops nails and splits aging caulking. 

Catching a heat-cracked pipe boot or a loose piece of flashing during a routine late-summer inspection is a minor, inexpensive fix. Waiting until that compromise turns into an active autumn leak can result in catastrophic, hidden costs, from structural rot and ruined attic insulation to mold mitigation. 

Behind the clipboard: What the pros are looking for 

When an experienced contractor steps onto a roof, they aren't just looking for missing shingles; they are evaluating an interconnected system. A comprehensive professional inspection zeroes in on four critical vulnerabilities: 

Flashing and boots: The metal flashing around chimneys, valleys and dormers, alongside the rubber boots surrounding plumbing vents, account for the vast majority of roof leaks. Inspectors check for rusted metal, cracked rubber and failing caulking. 

Shingle integrity: On asphalt roofs, inspectors look for clawing (edges curling under), cupping (edges curling up) and heavy granule loss. Granules protect the underlying asphalt from destructive UV radiation; once they wash away, the shingle degrades rapidly. 

Ventilation health: A roof needs to breathe. Inspectors evaluate ridge vents and soffits to ensure air flows freely. Poor attic ventilation traps oppressive summer heat and moisture, effectively baking the shingles from the underside and slashing their lifespan in half. 

Soffit and fascia: Contractors inspect the wooden or composite boards running along the roofline for signs of water damage, soft spots or animal intrusion. 

Maintenance vs. repair: Playing offense 

The difference between preventative maintenance and reactive repair is the difference between changing your car's oil and replacing a seized engine. One is a predictable, manageable line item; the other is a costly emergency. 

Playing offense means keeping the roof surface clear of leaves, moss and debris, while trimming tree limbs back at least six feet from the roofline to prevent wind-scratches and animal access. It means cleaning gutters twice a year, especially after the spring seed-drop and the autumn leaf-fall, so water flows away from the fascia rather than backing up under the eaves. 

Ultimately, the most critical maintenance tool isn't a ladder, it's a paper trail. By documenting and understanding the lifecycle of your roof, keeping a dedicated folder of initial installation paperwork, annual inspection reports and minor repair receipts, you create an invaluable asset. If you ever sell the property or need to file an insurance claim after a major storm, a documented history of proactive care is definitive proof that your roof was built to last. 

AAR Experts celebrates its continued commitment to helping home and building owners make confident roofing decisions. 

The Coffee Shops™, the award-winning digital platforms where industries come together for technology, insight and everyday business, announces 2026 AskARoofer Experts.    

Each month, AskARoofer™ Experts share their insights on timely topics such as warranties, wildfire protection, ventilation and roof performance, commercial roof inspections, preparing for spring weather and more. Information is shared through interviews, videos and articles on AskARoofer.com. Representing all facets of the roofing, exteriors, metal and coatings industries, these Experts are also recognized in a dedicated section of the site. 

“At AskARoofer, we are committed to connecting owners with the trusted expertise they need when questions arise about their roofs,” shared Heidi J. Ellsworth, President and CEO of The Coffee Shops. “By bringing together not only our AskARoofer Experts but also more than 140 roofing companies across the country, we’re creating a powerful network that communicates directly with home and building owners — answering their questions, providing local expertise and helping them make smarter decisions that protect what matters most in their roofs and exteriors while building lasting confidence in the roofing process and the industry itself.” 

We are proud to announce the following 2026 Experts: 

• John Kenney – Cotney Consulting Group 
• Jerry Iselin – Metal Roof Specialties, Inc. 
• Mindy Dahlquist – TRA Snow and Sun
• Wendy Marvin – Matrix Roofing and Home Solutions
• Henry Staggs – The Arizona Roofer
• Brittany Wimbish – Fields Roof Service
• Rachel Garcia – Malarkey Roofing Products 
• Bridget Wilson – Cardinal Roofing 
• Emily and Paul Marshall – Mr. And Mrs. Post Frame 
• Will Lorenz – General Coatings 

Find more information on the 2026 AskARoofer Experts!

About The Coffee Shops 

Award-winning websites and online communities make up The Coffee Shops. Starting with RoofersCoffeeShop, which launched in 2002, the growth of the sites has been explosive for the construction trades of roofing, metal, coatings and their customers. Currently featuring four Coffee Shops, RoofersCoffeeShop, MetalCoffeeShop®, CoatingsCoffeeShop®, OutdoorCoffeeShop™ and their sister site AskARoofer™, all the sites are committed to advocating for the construction trades by supplying consistent information, education and communication avenues for all contractors, while promoting positive growth, education and success of construction industries overall. The Coffee Shops also feature strong microsites with RoofersCoffeeShop.ca, RoofersCoffeeShop.uk and En Español. Visitors to the site continue to find excellent opportunities for sharing information while participating in important ongoing conversations concerning new technologies, safety and overall construction information and education. The Coffee Shops are “Where the Industries Meet!” For more information, visit www.thecoffeeshops.online. 

AAR Expert Henry Staggs says a well-ventilated attic lowers monthly energy costs and extends the life of your HVAC system.

This month, we turned to our AskARoofer Experts to explore one of the most important — and often overlooked — components of a high-performing roofing system: ventilation. Proper attic ventilation plays a critical role in regulating temperature, improving energy efficiency and protecting the long-term health of both the roof and the home.

To better understand its impact, we asked our Experts to weigh in on the following question: How do ventilation design choices impact attic temperatures, HVAC performance and long-term shingle durability? 

Henry Staggs, founder of The Arizona Roofer, shared his thoughts:

In the Arizona heat, roof surface temperatures can easily exceed 160°F, causing attic spaces to climb well above 140°F. Without proper airflow, that trapped heat eventually "soaks" through your insulation and into your living space. 

A well-ventilated attic creates a thermal buffer, significantly reducing the burden on your AC unit. By allowing your home to "breathe," you aren't just protecting your shingles — you're lowering your monthly energy costs and extending the life of your HVAC system. 

AAR Expert Henry Staggs shares his best advice for hiring the right contractor for your roofing project.

For many people, a roof is out of sight, out of mind. So, when it comes time to have work done on the roof, whether that's maintenance on a building or new shingles on a home, it can be a bit intimidating. That's why we created the AskARoofer Expert program!

This program connects home and building owners with professionals that are experts in the world of roofing through monthly articles. These articles, written directly by the experts, answer common questions you may have about embarking on a roofing project, from navigating warranties to picking the best materials. Most recently, in January 2026, our experts' articles focused on offering advice for home and building owners who are getting roof quotes.

Here's what one of the experts, Henry Staggs, had to say: 

"Hiring the right contractor isn’t about finding the lowest price — it’s about making a smart decision.

Start by verifying licenses and insurance. Make sure the contractor actually does the kind of work you need, and take a look at how they treat people online. Professionalism leaves clues.

Meet them face-to-face. The right contractor will explain things clearly, answer questions honestly and never rush you into a decision. Before you hire, check their record with the local court. A long history of disputes is something every homeowner should pause and think about.

Once you’ve found the right fit — then discuss price. Negotiation works best when trust is already in place."

This homeowner was up in their attic and noticed they could see the underlayment of their roof. 

Samantha, a homeowner in Missouri, came to our experts after some renovations were done on their house, including the roof. This is what they asked:

We recently had a house fire and have gutted part of our 1916 house. We just had new asphalt shingle roof put on less than two years ago. I noticed once they demolished the ceiling into the attic I could see the underlayment from the roof exposed in multiple areas. Is this normal? Should plywood have been added to the roof?

Below is what our roofing expert John Kenney with Cotney Consulting Group had to say in response to Samantha's question:

Samantha, seeing roofing underlayment from the attic is not typical in a roof assembly. In a properly built roof, the shingles should be installed over solid decking — usually plywood or OSB — which serves as the structural base for the roof system. The underlayment, whether felt or synthetic, is applied on top of that decking, directly beneath the shingles.

If you see the underlayment exposed from inside the attic, it likely means there’s no solid sheathing under the shingles—something more common in homes built before the 1940s, when spaced plank decking was standard. While older roofs can technically be reroofed over those boards, there should not be significant visible gaps exposing the underlayment. Gaps that wide can compromise shingle fastening, insulation and performance.

Given your home’s age and the recent fire damage, I’d recommend having a qualified roofing contractor or structural professional inspect the deck. They can confirm whether new sheathing should be installed over the existing boards to meet current codes and ensure long-term roof integrity.

In addition to John's response, Henry Staggs from the Arizona Roofer sent in this answer for Samantha!

Continue the conversation in our Forum!

AskARoofer Expert Henry Staggs shares what every homeowner and business owner should know about warranties.

When you invest in a roof, whether it’s for your home or a commercial property, you’re making a big commitment. A good roof protects everything underneath it, and you want to know that protection will last. That’s where warranties come in — but not all warranties are created equal. Over the years, I’ve seen a lot of property owners get tripped up by fine print or unclear coverage. Let’s break it down so you can make the right decision for your property. 

Material warranties versus workmanship warranties

There are two main types of roofing warranties, and it’s important to know the difference: 

1 - Material (manufacturer) warranties 

These come directly from the manufacturer of your shingles, tile, foam or coatings. They cover defects in the product itself. If the roofing material fails because it was made wrong, the manufacturer takes responsibility. 

Now, not all material warranties are equal. Some just promise the material won’t fall apart, while premium ones — like an NDL (No Dollar Limit) warranty on commercial roofing — go much further. With an NDL warranty, the manufacturer inspects the installation, and if there’s ever a covered problem, they’ll fix it at no cost to you. No limits, no caps. Best of all, that warranty stays in place even if your contractor disappears down the road. That’s a big deal. 
 
2 - Workmanship (contractor) warranties

This warranty comes from the contractor. It covers the labor and how the roof was put together — things like flashing, sealing or proper fastening. If a roof leaks because of poor workmanship, this is the coverage that matters.

The truth is, workmanship warranties vary wildly. Some companies only offer a year or two. Personally, I think that’s not good enough. A roof is meant to last, and your workmanship warranty should reflect that. That’s why at The Arizona Roofer, we back our work with extended workmanship coverage — because we believe in doing things right the first time.

How we protect our clients even if we're gone

Here’s something most people never think about: what happens if your contractor goes out of business? That’s a scary thought when you’ve just dropped thousands on a new roof. We’ve built in protections so our clients are never left hanging. 

• For commercial roofing - We offer manufacturer-backed NDL warranties. These aren’t just a piece of paper — the manufacturer actually inspects our work. That layer of accountability means your roof has protection that doesn’t depend on us still being around.
• For residential roofing - We’re proud members of directorii. This adds a level of security that most Arizona homeowners have never even heard of: 
  • Your deposit is insured up to $20,000. If anything were to happen to us before work starts, you’re not out that money. 
  • Plus, directorii backs our workmanship warranty up to $250,000. That covers code violations, workmanship defects and more — even if The Arizona Roofer wasn’t around anymore.

That’s real protection, and it’s one of the biggest reasons clients choose us.

How to navigate roofing warranties like a pro

When you’re looking at roofing bids, don’t just compare prices. Compare protection. Ask these questions: 

• Who actually backs the warranty — the contractor or the manufacturer? 
• Does the warranty stay valid if the contractor goes out of business? 
• Is the coverage capped or truly unlimited? 

Those questions can save you tens of thousands of dollars down the road. 

Final thoughts

At the end of the day, a roof is only as good as the materials, the workmanship and the protection behind it. That’s why we go the extra mile — so our clients know they’re covered, no matter what.

If your roof is more than six years old, it’s time for a professional inspection. If it’s over ten, you’re already overdue. Let’s take a look before small issues become big, expensive problems. 

Call or text me today at (480) 435-5190 or visit www.thearizonaroofer.com to schedule your free inspection.

When it came time to replace a piece of decking, this homeowner wanted to make sure they got it right the first time. 

John, a homeowner from Georgia, came to the AskARoofer Experts with a question about replacing a deck:

"Should old 11-inch wide plank decking be replaced with 4x8 OSB decking? If so, can you install new OSB on top of the existing plank decking?"

A variety of our experts chimed in with thoughts, including Jose Castellanos with Bumble Roofing, who said:

We always suggest using OSB or plywood with roof replacements to abide by manufacturer standards! With plank decking (we call it shiplap), there is a possibility that the nail driven into the shingle does not hit a board and is therefore not truly installed to the sheathing. It is possible to install OSB on top of the existing plank decking!

Roofing expert John Kenney from Cotney Consulting Group also responded with: 

Although the 11-inch plank decking may still have some structural integrity, it doesn’t always meet today’s manufacturers' standards for shingle application. Installing a layer of 4x8 OSB or plywood over the existing deck is a smart upgrade that solves those concerns and helps ensure the roof system performs as it should in the long term.

You can install OSB over the existing plank decking, assuming the planks are in good condition, meaning they’re flat, secure and rot-free. Doing so gives you a clean, consistent nailing surface and reduces the chances of shingles telegraphing board movement underneath. This is a common and accepted approach when reroofing older homes. Just make sure to use the proper fasteners that secure the OSB to the planks and penetrate into the rafters below. That’s key for maintaining structural integrity.

Now, if any of the existing plank decking is soft, warped or shows signs of decay, it needs to be replaced before proceeding. Laying OSB over bad wood doesn’t solve the problem; it just covers it up. That said, if the planks are solid, this method brings the roof up to modern standards cost-effectively. I’d also recommend checking with your local building department, but this method is acceptable in most areas as long as structural load requirements are met.

Donavan Morgan from The Roof Gallery, another one of our roofing experts, shared his thoughts: 

Yes, you can overlay old 11” plank decking with OSB instead of tearing it all out. Ideally it should have space less than 1/4 of an inch. 

• Replace planks only if they’re rotten, split or badly cupped.
• Overlaying OSB (7/16”–5/8”) gives a smooth, flat base and saves labor.
• Fasten into rafters, not just planks, so it’s structurally tied in.
• Watch weight, ventilation and fix any rotten boards first.

Rule of thumb If planks are mostly solid and less than 1/4 inch gap → overlay with OSB. If they’re shot → tear out and replace with full OSB decking.

And last but not least, our roofing expert Henry Staggs with The Arizona Roofer sent in this response! 

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

This homeowner asked the AskARoofer experts about what they should do to address a leak in their mobile home's roof. 

Lowe from South Dakota came to our experts with a bit of a unique question:

I built an addition on my 1970s mobile home and the roof is leaking. What do I do?

One of the AskARoofer experts, Henry Staggs of The Arizona Roofer, shared his advice with Lowe, saying: 

"Well, I assume the roof leak is probably somewhere in the transition from the old structure to the new addition. That's typically where I found them on those types of properties.

What I would suggest doing is going to a supply store that sells parts for manufactured homes like doors and windows and things like that, because manufactured homes or mobile homes are built differently, obviously, than a stick home, because they have to be lighter so they can be travel, travel on the road, so they use smaller boards and smaller or lighter, lower and less width. Forgive my lack of vernacular right now, a more narrow window, doors, etc, and the grip framing is typically a two by two, and it might have some cut OSB or CDX in there to help support it up.

But you got to kind of know what you're doing. And I would venture that you would find, or ask around in those areas, in those manufactured home supply stores, ask around for a roofer there, get some recommendations and have a couple guys come out and take a look. Those guys will be more familiar with the manufactured home, you know? As opposed to a roofer who's used to working only on stick built properties, you could probably still get the job done, but you have a very special home, so you'll need somebody who understands how it's made."

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

A year after purchasing a new home, this Maryland homeowner discovered air leakage in the attic and wanted to know the most efficient course of action. 

Piia, a homeowner from Maryland, wasn’t sure how to tackle air leakage in the attic and asked: 

I purchased my home last year and it passed inspection for attic insulation. The attic and second floor are very hot in the summer and very cold during the winter. During a home energy audit, we were told we have air leakage and they recommended that we instead spray foam on all the attic walls and ceiling. The attic floors are currently not sealed. Therefore, I am curious if we should instead invest in sealing those areas, and perhaps installing baffles, radiant barrier and an attic fan and/or gable fan before spending the money on spray insulation for the attic walls and ceiling. How do I know the right move? 

Below is what our roofing expert Henry Staggs from The Arizona Roofer had to say in response: 

Attic system recommendation – radiant barrier, insulation and ventilation 

Think of these components as part of a complete and integrated system. To get the best performance and energy efficiency, we need proper insulation, a radiant barrier and adequate airflow working together. 

I recommend designing a system that incorporates all three elements: 

• Radiant barrier to reflect heat away from the attic 
• Insulation to reduce heat transfer into the living space 
• Ventilation to allow hot air to escape and cooler air to circulate 

For example, we could install a radiant barrier along the underside of the roof decking, blow in R-38 insulation on the attic floor and add ridge and soffit vents to create a continuous airflow. This combination keeps the attic cooler in the summer and helps regulate indoor temperatures year-round, ultimately lowering energy bills and extending the life of your roof. 

John Kenney from Cotney Consulting Group had this to share: 

You’re asking the right question — and thinking through it in the correct order. 

Even with insulation, if air leakage and poor ventilation are present, your home will suffer from the extremes you feel. Here’s how to think about your options: 

Start with the basics first: 

1 - Air sealing the attic floor is typically the most cost-effective first step. Gaps around plumbing, wiring and top plates allow conditioned air to escape, making insulation less effective. 

2 - Install baffles at the eaves to ensure proper airflow from soffit vents up through the attic. 

3 - A radiant barrier can help reduce summer heat gain if your roof and attic design allow it. 

4 - Fans (attic or gable) can help improve air movement but should support — not replace — proper ventilation design. 

When does spray foam make sense? 

• If you want to convert the attic to a conditioned space (essentially bringing the attic inside your building envelope), spray foam on the underside of the roof deck and walls is excellent — but it’s also a bigger investment. 
• Spray foam is best when part of a whole-system approach, not just added to an already leaky, vented attic. 

How to decide: 

• If you plan to keep your attic a vented space (typical in most homes), prioritize air sealing the attic floor and improving ventilation first. 
• Spray foaming can be tricky and cause deck rot if moisture is trapped.  

Bottom line: 

Start with air sealing and improving your current ventilation — those steps alone often resolve many comfort issues at a lower cost. Then, assess if upgrading to a fully conditioned attic with spray foam fits your budget and long-term home goals. 

Continue the conversation in our Forum!

Expert answers to four questions from homeowners like you!

We created AskARoofer to help connect professionals in the roofing industry with home and business owners looking to learn more about roofing. One part of how we do this is getting expert answers to our users' questions. Here are four questions that were asked recently, and the expert answers to them!

1 - Roof between sheds

Coleen from Colorado was looking to find a way to cover a space between two sheds, so they asked: 

I want to enclose two sheds that are uneven by putting a roof between them. How can a person design this to keep snow and rain from building on the roof between the new roof.

One of the AskARoofer Experts, John Kenney from Cotney Consulting Group, had this to say in response:

The only way to design this safely is to use a contractor and a design professional to know how to space and fasten the roof supports between the two sheds. This more complicated project that requires professional design consultation.

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

2 - Leaking roof

When Michael from Kansas discovered a homeowners nightmare — a roof leak — they turned to the AskARoofer experts for some advice. They asked:

I have an addition that was built onto my home. Where the existing roof hits the addition, water collects and leaks into the walls of the addition. What sealer should I apply to the seam where the roof meets the vertical wall of the addition?

Where the angled roof meets the vertical wall, it is leaking into the wall. I need to seal the area but want to make sure I’m using the right thing.

Our resident roofing expert, Henry Staggs from the Arizona Roofer, shared this advice: 

At a roof to wall abutment there should be a flashing. If it’s the head wall, we need a base and counter flashing. If is the rake wall and the roof is shingled. We need step flashing and a counter flash. If it’s tile then we need a pan flashing and counter flash. 

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

3 - Holes in roofing

Elaine from West Virginia reached out for some help when they were looking into buying a home. They asked:

We are buying a house and the owner had a roof leak and top nailed a tarp the roof. The owner took out the nails and filled the holes with sealer. Is the roof compromised now?

Below is what our roofing expert John Kenney with Cotney Consulting Group had to say in response:

Yes, the roof may be compromised. Top-nailing a tarp creates penetrations in the roof surface, and simply sealing those nail holes afterward is not a proper repair. Even high-quality sealant can degrade over time, especially under UV exposure and may not prevent future leaks. The extent of the damage depends on the roofing material, how long the tarp was in place and whether water entered through those holes before sealing.

Have a licensed roofing contractor perform a detailed inspection before closing to protect your investment. They should check for hidden moisture damage, weakened decking and the system's overall health. A quick patch job may hide bigger problems — so verify before you buy.

Continue the conversation in our Forum! 

4 - Roof ridge workmanship

When Kristen from Maine came from work, they saw something strange on their roof. So they asked our experts this: 

Came home from work yesterday, and this is what I saw for ridge workmanship. It's my first new roof as a first-time homeowner, but this does not look right to me. Roofer dismissed what I described as it not looking "clean" (especially towards left side) as related to cold weather. I'm not so certain? Hoping for some advice so I can speak up before the job is finished, thanks.

Here's what one of the AskARoofer experts, Steven Minkler with Adam Quenneville Roofing and Siding, thought about Kristen's situation:

Definitely not clean work!!!

Typically they would cut one in half being the last one and either tar it or adhesive on to ensure the look is clean, and water tight with no exposed fasteners.

Continue the conversation in our Forum!